All Hail Humble Chipboard

One might say my love of letterpress started with chipboard. I recently chuckled over a delivery of this recycled wonder in the shop as it made me pause to marvel at its humble magnificence. This batch was two-tone… two very different shades on each side, as shown by this month’s Print Club postcard.

Chipboard is a 100% recycled material designed for multiple utilitarian uses. And we definitely use it this way as evidenced by a look around the studio. Nearly every cutoff is saved for padding paper in the guillotine, collecting unwanted ink, packing orders, bulking up prints, etc.

Back in the 90’s, I took breaks from university studies by visiting record stores, which ultimately meant stumbling over new ideas in music packaging. At the time, CDs were king and this meant a considerable amount of plastic. Those that bucked the system immediately stood out; they were printed on chipboard packages! This magic immediately caught my eye and to my delight, I discovered many were made here in Chicago at Fireproof Press. Fast forward a few months and I got a job there while continuing to build a collection of unique packaging. Below are a few projects we printed at Fireproof and one CD by John Upchurch (the man behind Fireproof) that was printed at Starshaped.

These are a few records and CDs printed by Independent Project Press using chipboard as well.

Many of these packages were pre-fab and ideal for the versatility of a platen press. They came from Calumet Carton, not far from Chicago. They no longer offer CDs but I still purchase all of the mailers for the studio from them.
Below are a few of the music packages printed at Starshaped. You can see how even with similar packages, the chip itself shifts in color and sometimes texture.

Chipboard has shown up for a number of studio projects over the years, including this silent film-inspired poster for an annual open house. This particular stock had a grayish cast and was perfect for the job.

Chipboard is also the first choice for CHIRP Radio projects! These are a few of the invitations and cards we’ve done together over the years.

I’ve also used chipboard for a number of prints in the studio, including both of these below. The ampersand uses the back sides of wood type blocks to print translucent rectangles that allow the chipboard texture to show through. The snowy barn demonstrates how the color of chip can work for printing both light and dark colors.

The Dollhouse Gig Posters project in 2016 was an opportunity to combine all of these loves together. Each month of the year, I produced a tiny, 2x3” ‘poster’ of a musical genre and subscribers received them in the mail. The tiny posters were mounted onto 7” square chipboard showing what genre it was, with a nod to 60s-style ‘collect them all!’ design sensibilities.

And here’s a recent job for Mark Lerner, a longtime fan of the almighty chipboard and letterpress combo!

Chipboard features heavily in the Print Club. Not only is the postcard used to share info about the Club printed on it, but the monthly postcards are as well. You can see by the collection of postcards here that the chip itself changes over time with each delivery, even as the spirit of each design remains the same. It’s my favorite piece to create for the Club each month.

I get chipboard from Andrews Paperboard, the same place that supplied Fireproof back in the day. Again, I like to keep it local, and my delivery driver pal, Steve, always brings a laugh when he shows up with a pallet of fresh, newly recycled chipboard. It’s not the fanciest paper, it’s not high class, it’s often inconsistent in appearance and wasn’t designed necessarily for ‘lofty’ letterpress. But chipboard is the great equalizer and when it moves on from my shop, either in the recycle bin or for finished projects, it has every opportunity to become a fresh, new project for another lover of the mighty, humble chipboard.

Sowing 19th Century Seeds

At the end of every year, I like to send out a New Year card to family, friends and Starshaped supporters. This time around, I wanted to dig into my collection of nineteenth-century type to see what I could create.

Nineteenth-century type presents a number of challenges when setting it as much of it was created prior to the development of the point system for measuring type in 1887 (shout out, Chicago!) This means working with a variety of sizes not necessarily designed to play well together as different foundries had different ideas of sizing. Imagine Tetris with individual, uniquely-sized blocks vs. uniform ones that still have to work together to advance the game.
As you can see from the form image below, the spacing (darker) material is hodgepodge all over the place to fill the gaps around odd-sized ornaments. This was as tidy as I could get it; as a rule, the less spacing you need to absolutely hold together a form correctly, the easier your lockup will be when getting ready to print.

Much of the ornament for this card was produced at Mackellar, Smiths & Jordan in Philadelphia, though some is marked ‘Johnson’, a precursor foundry affiliated with MSJ.

These specimen books are incredibly helpful for identifying small, seemingly random bits of ornament as part of systems. It’s also informative to know how they were designed to go together to create larger imagery. Most of the collections show the initial set of individual pieces in the middle with surrounding ideas of how to work with them.

My card uses a set of angled-looking ornaments that are on rectangular bases but in sections so that they can be built to whatever configuration of space needs to be filled.

The scan below is from the MSJ book, but I’ve erased the pieces I don’t have so that I can focus on digitally building forms with what’s available. I often start with rough sketches, digital mockups and then fight with the actual type to get it to work the way I want.

Combination ornaments make an appearance on the card. They’re a bit worn from use so it’s nice to see them in their original, delicate state. Wear and tear on type is common, even with newly cast type. The makeup of the metal used for casting can vary widely between foundries and some is harder than others. I find that, in general, the older the type is in the studio, the more durable it is. That said, there’s a balance between what is worn in a good, printable way and that which is beyond use. I shoot for the best print possible but allow the flaws; if a perfect print is desired, use a computer. The scars are a testament to the life of these objects.

A few corner ornaments come from this set that I acquired a few years ago (yes, even the dogs! Notice one is on his side!) Thanks to Laura at Pinwheel Press for finding this reference image. Chicago Type Foundry is otherwise known at Marder & Luse, a foundry that (just barely) survived the Great Chicago Fire in 1871, then went on to standardize the point system.

If you don’t have the access to or money to own original specimen books, I highly recommend The Handy Book of Artistic Printing for incredible samples of what letterpress printers did with metal type and ornament to compete with commercial lithography in the late 1800s. I often reference it for ideas and color combos, as well as to revel in the talents of my predecessors. Find it at your favorite indie bookshop!

The final New Year cards are 7x5” and printed on my last bit of Zerkall paper (this German papermaker ceased operation in the past few years following centuries of production). I sweated over, but was successful, at locking up the complex form to print on the 1923 Chandler & Price press in the shop.

I added a homemade chipboard extension to a gripper to help hold the paper down as it went in, given it’s a lightweight stock that wants to fly away. There are all kinds of ways to do this but my configuration was the quickest given the lockup I put together.

Here’s a bit more detail on the corners, along with the type form.

I also printed envelopes as some inevitably make their way back to the shop and it’s handy to know who didn’t receive one.

Wanting to pop the text blocks a bit, I carved a simple linoleum cut and inked it with a very pale moss green, that was, in fact, mostly transparent ink. Linoleum blocks are the easiest way to add a block of color to prints.

As the current caretaker of these materials, it’s important to me that they don’t just sit in boxes like a prize; while they have value, to me, this is represented in their staying power and ability to hold up over more than a century. Some find their way onto custom client projects and some on former Print Club pieces. At any rate, my job is to care for them, document the collections and be ready to pass them on when I’m no longer able to print. How many other printers have done just that.
I may have extra cards… if so and you’d like one, please reach out.